Flocking! - not for the birds....

What is flocking you ask?

It is the process of depositing small fiber particles (called flock) onto a surface. Christmas trees are especially beautiful using this method.
This is the J&M tree.
Isn't it just lovely?
It adds such a simply beauty that really less ornaments was more.
We would definitely reccommend this to anyone.
How are you decorating your homes for the season?

Winterizing

Here in North Carolina we have enjoyed a very mild fall and winter. While just a few short days away from Christmas we are expecting 70 degree weather in the coming days.

Guess we will be crossing a 'White Christmas' off the list this year.

BUT the night temps dip pretty low and so it is important to winterize your tools - more specifically your mowers, edgers and weed eaters. These are high dollar investments so it is always a good idea to take good care of them. One way to do this is ensure that the motors are not troubled by old gas. Most of us will not be mowing the lawn during the winter months but will still have fuel in the tanks of our mowers and other tools.

The gas when left in the tanks can really gunk up your engine and it is a good idea to drain the remainder OR use a fuel stabilizer that helps to keep gas "fresh".  

I like to use STA-BIL.

Just squeeze the bottle until the spout fills to the corret amount. The manufacturers advise one ounce to every 21/2 gallons of fuel.

They have very clear directions on the back so you don't put too much or too little in your engine.

A VERY simple & quick way of protecting your investment so you'll be prepared for the season of mowing just around the corner.

Point to remember - if you have a lawn mower with double tanks make certain that you cross the fuel lines.

Until next time!

About Pinnacle Rubber Mulch - let me bounce a few facts off ya!

Pinnacle Rubber Mulch

it's an innovative and eco-friendly alternative to traditional wood mulch for landscaping and playgrounds.

Compared to wood mulch, rubber mulch is safe, more cost-effective, durable, environmentally friendly and lower-maintenance.

Plus, rubber mulch is clean- minimizing airborne dust and particles. Available in seven fade-resistant colors, rubber mulch is a superior solution for every playground and landscaping project.

Because you do not have to re-apply rubber mulch every year, you can save up to 65% over 5 years compared to traditional wood mulch. You save not only the costs of buying new mulch, but also on the labor of re-applying it on a yearly basis.

Unlike wood mulch, rubber mulch doesn't splinter, is resistant to decomposition, compression, wind and water erosion, bug and rodent infestation, and fading caused by sunlight. Rubber mulch lasts up to 10 times longer and retains is color and vibrancy while not staining clothes or skin - even in the rain.

A softer surface than traditional wood mulch, impact studies have shown a significant reduction in contusion and head related injuries, with an IPEMA ASTM F1292-09 Certification for fall heights up to 16 feet.

 Extensive testing by the EPA and certification by the IPEMA supports rubber mulch as environmentally-friendly and safe for your kids and pets.

Rubber Mulch also offers ADA-Qualified wheelchair accessibility.

Interested?

Call now (910)536-6034

Diggin' in the Dirt (a.k.a. Soil Sample)

Soil sample - sound complicated?

Certainly NOT!!

But the real question that many people ask is - 

What is the point of a soil sample?

It is reccommended that before initiating any new landscaping - whether it be laying sod, starting a veggie garden (like me) or just putting in flowers or perrennials that you take a sampling of soil.

You will want to do this a number of months in advance so that you have time to adjust the Ph balance of your soil if needed. It is a quick and easy way to ensure proper fertilizer application.

Soil samples to be analyzed for soil pH, salt content, zinc (Zn) and phosphorus (P) can be taken nearly any time of year. Potassium (K) values from samples taken in frozen soil may test high compared to other times of the year. Sulfur (S) and chloride (Cl) are mobile in the soil, so sampling in the fall or spring is recommended.

While it is the beginning of December, I live on the east coast so we are still having mild temperatures during the day however for those colder climates I would recommend waiting until the ground isn't frozen.

And here we go -

The directions are actually written right on the box so you have to make a huge effort to mess up which means - NOT complicated!

Now I just used a little trowel since I'm just testing the soil to prep for a vegtable garden.

The depth of the soil that you get for your sample is important. You don't want just a the top layer. As you can see my spot has dead grasses on the top layer. I got a 6 inch depth for my sample.

There are various recommendations for what depth you should get your soil for your sample but this depends greatly on the type of crops/ plants your looking to grow and the depth the roots will shoot down.

Here is one suggestion I found to be helpful- 

Get soil from different spots on the land so you get a good idea of what your fertilizing needs truly are instead of a blanket of fertilizer which you may not need and you could spend you money elsewhere. (sound good to you?)

And then we sit back with some hot cocoa & put our feet up to wait for the results -

ha! Who has time for that stuff?!

Give a few weeks for the information.

See how easy that was? Aren't you wondering why you haven't already done this?

The Dirty Word We Are Allowed to Say....?

Fertilization!

It is smelly, can be very dirty but it is the cheapest and easiest way to impact a lawn.

How do you go about doing this, you ask.

First - Calculate the size of your lawn. For a rectangular space, multiply the length by the width (A=LxW) so a area 50 feet by 60 feet contains 3,000 square feet.

The best time to do this work is early in the morning, while the breeze is light and a dew is heavy on the ground. The spreader leaves tracks in the dewy grass so you can see where you have been - which of course means we highly recommend using a spreader.

Spreaders basically have two options - Drop OR Rotary.

What is the difference?

Drop spreaders are more precise. They are best used if you have areas near where you are fertilizing that you may not want to treat.

Rotary spreaders use what is refered to as a broadcast which allows you to cover a larger path. Be careful to overlap each pass so you don't leave gaps.

NEXT - your going to want to test your soil.

Really you should test your soil about every 3 to 5 years or when you lawn is not looking healthy.

1.      Collect several soil samples at different locations in your lawn. Take samples 3 inches deep.

2.      Mix all samples and then measure out one cup and send off to testing location.

Soil sample boxes and information sheets are available at your local Cooperation Extension office.

Once you get the test numbers back it might be a little tricky understanding the numbers.

Nitrogen (N) - Boosts growth and green color

Phosphorus (P) - Feeds seedlings and aids root growth.

Potassium (K) - Strengthens resistance to drought and disease

You will want N- 29, P - 4, K - 4.

The best fertilizers are high in nitrogen.

We'll have more next on when and how often to fertilize.

See you next week!

Man Versus Lawn

Have you been battling your lawn and still find that it is not what you want it to be? It is a very common problem and can stem from not cutting your grass the proper length. If you want your lawn to look green and luscious you need to make certain you cut it properly.

The frustrations that come from trying to figure out the proper lengths to mow our lawns can be SUCH a headache!

But I have some tips to help save you on popping some headache medicine AND save your lawn.

Here we go starting with the absolute basics:

SHARP BLADES

As you know, sharp blades cut grass cleanly, making for a better looking and less disease prone lawn.

We will go over mowing heights of some of the most common grasses at the end of this post but first a few points-

Mow often enough so that you remove more than one third (1/3) of the grass blade. 

Grass clippings neither add to thatch or increase chances for disease. As long as you mow your lawn at the right height and at proper intervals. Thatch - you ask what is that? Well -

Thatch is a layer of living and dead plant stems, leaves and roots that develops between the soil surface and green vegetation. Thatch more than 1/2 inch thick can keep water from reaching the soil and roots, reduce pesticide effectiveness, and creates shelter for pests.

 

Now for those mowing heights I promised:

Bermudagrass - 1/2 to 1 1/2 inches

Zoysiagrass - 3/4 to 2 inches

Centipedegrass - 1 to 1 1/2 inches

Kentucky bluegrass - 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 inches

Fine Fescue - 2 to 3 inches

Perenial Ryegrass - 1 to 2 1/2 inches

Tall Fescue - 2 to 3 inches

Bahiagrass - 2 to 3 inches

St. Augustine grass - 2 to 3 inches

Seashore paspalum - 1 to 3 inches

Carpet grass - 1 1/10 to 2 inches

Buffalograss - 2 to 3 inches

Got that? great - any questions? Leave a comment and I'll answer.